The Tate Farms grass-fed burger excels in just about every category available for burger assessment. The bun is a soft round of pain au lait, the bacon is cured in-house and the pickles are made right there, too. The Gruyere is nutty and melted in a thick slice and while most burgers sport raw onions, here they're caramelized and sweet. That's before you even get to the patty, which is gently formed, cooked over a wood-burning grill and served alongside a tangle of hand-cut french fries. There are only so many things you can do with a burger, and Boulevardier checks off all of them.