Some fine-dining restaurants go for broke with enormous wine lists, dozens of pages long. Others stay hyper-focused on one region or a small selection of favorites. Gemma maintains a happy balance between the two extremes. Indeed, balance is the hallmark here: Gemma stocks both familiar and obscure varietals, both classic French regions and more adventurous locales, both $40 bargain bottles and splurgetastic special-occasion wines. Everything pairs harmoniously with the kitchen's cuisine. The bargain wines are often remarkable discoveries, and it doesn't hurt that the ownership cares as passionately about wine as they do about food.