Barbecue fans will admit, it is — and yet it isn't — always about the meat. Good thing Slow Bone has their brisket, sausage and turkey down. For those who want a well-rounded experience at any barbecue joint, it comes down to the sides. Take, for instance, Slow Bone's Frito pie, which can totally be considered a side for the incredibly hungry. It's piled with brisket chili and cheddar, and chef Jeffery Hobbs recommends topping it with a quarter-pound of fatty brisket and a pickled jalapeño. Do it. He's right. For the more traditional, the star of the side show is the pea salad, made better than Grandma's. Peas, cheddar, pimento, eggs and house-made sweet-and-sour pickles and pickled onion, and a few other things that make it Slow Bone's own, are combined to make peas with a punch. Eat it on the meats or save it for last. Or just get a container to go for midnight snack time. Slow Bone's pintos and greens (mustard and turnip, as it should be) are can't-miss (though not safe for vegetarians; all others are meat-free), and the roasted squash and sweet potato praline will send you back to the best part of childhood.