Cosmo's is a little slice of East Dallas history. The bar itself has been around for a few years, but now more than ever it reflects a lesser-known chapter in the city's past, when Southeast Asian immigrants moved into the neighborhood, escaping the Vietnam War and various bloody dictatorships. It's only logical that Cosmo's now boasts a Vietnamese chef and a full menu of pho, banh mi, stir-fried noodles and rice dishes, all made from scratch. Yes, the kitchen is so tiny that Jackson Tran's food can take a while to arrive. But one bite of super-fresh banh mi baguette, with pork meatballs that still taste like charcoal flame, and you'll know why you came. It's not all Vietnamese, either: There's a silly-good plate of kimchi-and-cheese tots, and some regulars still prefer the old-school bar-style pizza.