Sometimes at night you just want a big, untamed sandwich. A two-hander. At those hours, if it's Thursday, Friday or Saturday, a gravitational force will pull you toward Deep Ellum's Blue Light music venue, where one small corner of the bar makes for a tiny kitchen that puts out sandwiches that go long on flavor. Sofrito-braised brisket gets piled up, topped with pickled jalapeños and smashed into bread on the griddle; a plank of bologna gets good old crosshatched grill marks before the rest of the sandwich gets assembled. Don't miss chocolate chip cookies made with duck fat and five-spice mix, either. What, did you expect this to be healthy?