Pick a downtime, and it's likely you'll find owners Andrew and Edi Kelley waiting for you behind the counter. They've taken the idea of a counter deli and asked, "What if we made this awesome?" The churning waves of real grape soda will lull you into a trance. Arch your head back to see the faded-yellow menu near the ceiling — it's an original from the joint's creation. Brisket pastrami, rosy on the inside and pepper-charred on the outside, is light years ahead of its sandwich competition. Load it with pepperoncini peppers. The No. 13 is a gem, too: Find turkey, capicola and sharp provolone in between whatever dang toppings you want. Get a cookie and an ice-cold grape soda, for goodness sakes.