Meridian is a possible future fine-dining landmark and a bona fide contender for our best new restaurant award. But we also can't stop thinking about its side order of potatoes. Chef Junior Borges and his crew fry these nuggets until they're the dark gold of a beach tan, with crunch on the edges and a creamy softness in the middle. Then the taters get dusted in dehydrated vinegar, which adds a tart fish-and-chips note of flavor, and pollen, which looks cool. It's hard to come up with a new, let alone iconic, spin on frying a spud, but those geniuses at Meridian have done the trick.