Fusion--Asian, global, Latin--was once a chic culinary expression. But like "synergy," fusion has been bled of its punch, bludgeoned into grogginess from too much word-buzzing. Now it's derided: confusion, collision and disorder are among the mockeries. Kitchen 1924 may herald new culinary expression. "It's a true generic kitchen concept," says Shawn Horne, "just straightforward food done in its truest form." That means fresh vegetables in a little butter and garlic, whole roasted fish, roasted and fried chicken and grilled meats with uncomplicated seasonings (hasn't Luby's already done this?). Horne, whose record includes roles at Star Canyon, Green Room, Abacus, Ferré and York Street, is utilizing a $250,000 investment to transform the former La Dolce Vita space in Lakewood into a community dining hall with four long tables seating 80. Diners can eat lunch, dinner and a hangover brunch between noon and 6 p.m. on Sunday plus a happy hour at a moniker-relevant 19:24 hours, or 7:24 p.m. Edward Mendoza, formerly of Hotel St. Germain and Lola, will be the generic chef...Is it us, or is Joe Palladino a Tristan Simon Mini-Me? Simon opens the private club Sense fed from Cuba Libre and Hibiscus guests. Palladino opens Medici fed from Nick & Sam's and Il Mulino guests. Simon opens Fireside Pies; Palladino is opening a pizzeria/wine bar next month in the former Margaux space below Medici. Fine. But is there any truth to the rumor that Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon might acquire Nick & Sam's? "That's what I hear," Palladino says. "I know they've been lookin' at our place a lot, because we're doing $9 million out of there, you know?" Still, he says it's only a rumor, just like the one we heard that Palladino plans to open a tavern called Front Stoop.
