Because I’m the age I am, the word “biscuit” makes me think of “The Humpty Dance” every single time I hear it or even think it. If I eat a good enough biscuit, I might even quietly rap it. Samoans!
I guess that a place with biscuit in the name had best get them right, but I actually find that such a simple food seems to confound many breakfast places. The Mecca survived for decades in Dallas with some of the blandest, most insubstantial biscuits ever devised.
The Biscuit Bar in Deep Ellum turns out medium-dense, medium-sized, square biscuits, and they’re great. Paired with whatever filling you get, you’re meant to eat one: They’re Goldilocks, just-right size.
We tried the hot-hot chicken, which was a convincing rendition, and the HOSS, which typographically seems like it wants to be an acronym but apparently is just very emphatic.
Tater tots are trendy AF right now as high-end, semi-ironic side dishes — a way to enjoy a quotidian favorite for $18 next to your A5 wagyu.
Almost every aspect of the experience at Biscuit Bar has an off-putting element. The design is super clean, country style but adorned with neon bon (?) mots that suggest that the author poorly translated jokes from another language to English. The friendly and attentive staff is forced to wear these strange word jumbles on their T-shirts, even the misogynistic one from the ’90s novelty rap track.
I applaud the low price point, but does that absolutely require that all the service wear be unsustainable, cheap, plastic and Styrofoam crap?
We need creative concepts aimed at breakfast, but they should all do better than self-service drip coffee from What Our Distributor Carries Roasters. The one unalloyed triumph of the place is a full bar.
The approach to the restaurant is on the north side of the development. I’m confident the general contractor who built it privately called it the “back” or “ass” side of the complex. But you might as well go there anyway because this is the building you just paid millions and millions of dollars to move Uber into.
Across Good-Latimer Expressway, construction is underway on two refugee concepts from Uptown. To the north, I am assured Bottled Blonde is no longer enforcing the nation’s single most racist dress code.
City government would have us believe that Deep Ellum is simply not financially viable without massive subsidies, greatly increased building height and clean, soulless tenants. The Epic did, after all, restore the Knights of Pythias building.
Adair’s Saloon, Off the Record and Revolver Taco Lounge, this suckle-at-the-teat-of-government theory of development makes it less and less likely that DE maintains its funk.
Or if “Baby Got Batch” legitimately amuses you, then DON’T WORRY BE TAPPY.
The Biscuit Bar, 2550 Pacific Ave., Suite 150 (Deep Ellum). Open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. Thursday through Saturday; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.