Restaurant Reviews

Sandwiched

EuroTex Café is a racquetball court of a restaurant that echoes with Elgar instead of slaps of spherical rubber. Trickles of sound bounce off the walls too, from a fountain with four frogs leaking water from various orifices.

EuroTex Café is a clean, fresh downtown lunch and breakfast spot serving food that you actually want to eat and taste instead of simple filler to keep your belly from mewling in the middle of a meeting. The menu is loaded with minor variations on just a couple of themes: sandwiches and breakfast accoutrements.

The breakfast sector is disappointing, mostly because some of the more attractive entries--Belgian waffles and omelets--are offered only on Saturdays. EuroTex's clientele, the kind who amble downtown every weekday morning to push financial paper and file lawsuits, need waffles and omelets every day. Which isn't to say that the rest of the morning fare is bad. It's good. The bagel with salmon and cream cheese ($5.25) was well speckled with capers, and the tomato and onion slices were fresh and generous with no unsightly shrivels or blemishes. And the salmon strips were silken, though maybe a little too subdued flavorwise.

The croissant encumbered with egg, ham, cucumber, and tomato was fluffy and full, though it was obviously nuked, a process that transformed the croissant fibers into elastic. The Greek salad ($5.75) was also big and fluffy, a puff of clean head and romaine lettuce strips bedding richly flavored cherry tomatoes, large glistening rings of red onion, and slices of green bell pepper strewn with crumbles of fresh, rich feta.

Everything else sampled at EuroTex was compressed, as if had been run over by a big 4x4 tire. The Godfather ($6.75) was a tightly pressed assembly of prosciutto, mortadella, salami, tomato, onions, capers, and pesto on toasted focaccia. The sandwich tasted fine, although there was no detectable pesto. Plus, it could have used more capers or something to give the sandwich more spark.

The Reuben ($4.95), however, had spark to spare. The Dijon mustard was blistering. The untoasted rye bread was heavily carawayed. The meat was placed on the sandwich in pressed flat sheets. Still, it had clean shavings of sauerkraut, though there wasn't enough of it. The cheese was minimal too.

But maybe this is unnecessary fussiness. EuroTex serves lots of coffee drinks and Italian sodas, and the menu is neatly scrawled in colored chalk on a large board behind the counter. The blond wood tables embedded with white ceramic tile are clean, and the walls are attractively textured with a cantaloupe-slice pattern (the cantaloupe served with the sandwiches is delicious). There's a sign on the window that says "notary public inside," in case you need something notarized. And if you don't like Elgar, you can always bring a racquetball.