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Mary Brown Malouf February 27, 1997 4:00AM

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"I just don't get this cigar and cocktail trend--it's so eighties," a friend complained lately. It's my theory that cigars and martinis are the cheaper, more benign version of the last decade's vices, cocaine and champagne, but I don't really get it, either. However, there is one restaurant that's picked up on the trendiness of tobacco in a novel way. At Byblos, the (excellent) Lebanese restaurant in Fort Worth, you can order an after-dinner hookah for five bucks, with your choice of several tobaccos. Talk about retro: pass the pipe and reminisce.

--Mary Brown Malouf

Byblos, 1406 North Main, Fort Worth, (817)625-9667

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