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My dad, one of my regular dining companions, doesn't like goat cheese. He'll tell you so with great firmness and maintain that opinion right up to the moment when he puts it in his mouth. "Mmmm...that's good. What is it?" "Goat cheese, Dad." He's not a wishy-washy guy; it's just that he's often served Mozzarella Company's goat cheese when what he remembers is other goat cheeses. The Mozzarella Company's goat cheese is different--fresh, with a citrusy tang, and you don't have to take my word for it. Or my dad's. It just won the Gold Medal for its Texas Goat Cheese at the American Goat Dairy Products Awards Competition in Wisconsin, and they oughta know.

The Mozzarella Company, 2944 Elm St. 741-4072

--Mary Brown Malouf