Restaurant Reviews

Gandolfo's Food Truck Could Use A Bit More Wizardry

Food trucks get tons of attention, but is the food they're peddling any good? While evaluating creativity, curb appeal, value and taste to award Firestone tires, we're ranking Dallas' food trucks to sort out which one's are worth chasing around town and which ones may be headed for a blow out.

Randy Wolken was clear from the start he intended to put multiple food trucks on the streets of Dallas as soon as he could. Last April he told CoA he intended to have three Gandolfo's trucks running by the end of the year. A bricks-and-mortar deli was in the works as well. Half way through this year, there's still only a single truck, though a girl working the window told me a second is not far away.

Gandolfo's takes a New York City brand, tosses it on wheels and peddles it around the city to hungry office workers. You can catch them at One Arts many days of the week, and they do a good job of spreading the love around Dallas for those who don't happen to work near a food-truck court. On my second visit, I picked up a couple of sandwiches as they parked on Sherry Street just off of the toll road.

A roast beef sandwich called the Jet came on a small, lifeless white roll that got soft and soggy after 15 minutes in the wrapper, while a "Second City" hot dog paired a grilled quarter-pound link on a similarly lifeless roll with mustard, a pickle slice, onions and relish. Neither was very impressive. The roast beef was a little sparse in the Jet, and most hot dog carts on the streets of Manhattan turn out a better hot dog.

Pastrami and corned beef sandwiches like the Reuben packed much better flavor and better bread. Both meats are sliced as thin as tissue paper and piled generously on marble rye bread and then slathered generously with Russian dressing or spicy deli mustard that packs a bite. I wish they held up better. Even the rye gets a little soft and goopy if you don't eat quickly. The results are a sandwich that's not enough to save a menu that's ultimately a little boring.

Prices are high as well. A pastrami sandwich is $8.95 at Cindy's Deli and comes with a side of potato salad. A similar sandwich runs you $10.49 at Gandolfo's and you still have to buy a bag of Vicky's potato chips.

Gandolfo's offers an attractive package, and seems to do well based on the lines I've seen forming at its order taking window. There are better sandwiches to be had in Dallas, though, wheels or otherwise.

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