Openings and Closings

Welcome to East Dallas' El Come Taco, Your Newest Taco Obsession

I've been driving past El Come Taco's plastic banner for months now, wondering when they were going to open. The last time I peeked in the window, in mid-October, the place was still full of loose wires and construction dust. It looked like the had a long way to go.

But The Taco Trail reports that they opened in early December, which was pointed out by a reader in a comment on our Biggest Closings of the Year post. The only response, of course, was to drop everything I was doing, rocket down Fitzhugh Avenue and order no fewer than 10 tacos.

There's no disguising the tongue in the lengua tacos. It's cut in thick slices, tastebuds and all, and heaped into a double-stack tortilla and accompanied by a salsa tailored specifically for that cut. Normally I appreciate when a kitchen peels the skin (and tastebuds) off a tongue before they slice it, but taking a huge bite of this taco quelled my concerns. It was good.

I had tacos with chewy chunks of suadero, chewy bits of steak, fatty soft hunks of tender cabeza, sweet and quietly spicy pastor and salty, crispy chorizo. Nearly each of these tacos come with their own salsa. Order a wide variety and owner Luis Villalva will come to your table with his arms wrapped around five or six squeeze bottles, each labeled with its appropriate destination.

Villalva is definitely working through some opening quirks. His HVAC seems to be improperly wired so the air conditioning runs when heat seems much more appropriate. The service seems a little slow, too. Still, the tacos I had recently showed promise. And in a month or two Villalva told me he had some more surprises planned for the menu.

I'm not going to miss them.

El Come Taco, 2513 North Fitzhugh Ave., 214-821-3738