100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 44: The Ham and Swiss Sandwich at One90 Smoked Meats

Nick Rallo
One90 Smoked Meats makes the ham for its sandwich ($9).
Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

There are sandwich icons, like the BLT, that are probably best made at home. Texas tomatoes, crispy bacon, and mayonnaise don't need Wolfgang Puck to combine them. On first glance, you may think: Why in the name of The Alamo would I order a ham sandwich at a tiny storefront in a strip mall on Northwest Highway? Here are a few reasons:

One90 makes the damn ham in house. What sandwich joint makes its own ham? Co-owner Herman Guerra walks us through the process: A big, porky hunk of hind quarter arrives, and One90 strips away the tough stuff and brines it for about a week in salt and spices. Then, the pork is smoked over oak and pecan for about five to six hours and sliced thin to order. The sandwich gets two slices of melted Swiss, shaved pickle and onion. You can add either Creole mustard (pick this one) or mayonnaise to complement the soft, buttery brioche. The bun's stupendous and toasted, a near slice of French atmosphere from La Francaise French Bakery in Garland. It bookends the ham with a pillowy sweetness. This is one of Dallas’ best sandwiches, and it doesn’t need Boar’s Head deli cuts to do it. The simplest iconic sandwiches are best made at home, but there are irresistible versions from our city's chefs.