Don’t get us wrong: Jettison makes good classic cocktails, including highballs, martinis and an especially precise Old Fashioned. But the draw here is the seasonally changing menu of new inventions, which head bartender George Kaiho conjures from unlikely inspirations. Just during the pandemic alone, there were cocktails with mustard green juice and Parmesan cheese. One creation combined gin, mezcal, coconut, lime, chili oil and cilantro into a cocktail that tasted like Thai curry — and, before you ask, not only was it drinkable, it was terrific. So is the atmosphere, one of the quietest and most discreet bars in the city, an ideal place for an elegant date night or a top secret spy rendezvous. Reservations recommended.