Set in Saigon Mall, Nãm Húa is small, Spartan and utilitarian with stacks of Vietnamese newspapers, a television broadcasting Vietnamese-language programming, and tables with lots of chopsticks, soup spoons, and squeeze bottles of hot sauce. And food, great heaps and pools of food for pinched-penny prices. Spring rolls as big as cabin logs jammed with pork and shrimp and mint and rice noodles. Bowls of aromatic pho with clean, nurturing broths clasping crinkled sheets of paper-thin eye of sirloin and pieces of soft tendon and tripe. Heaping platters of rice with crispy marinated hen, or shrimp and fish paste plus caramelized catfish-all fresh reasons to convert to a mall rat.