In its first incarnation, Damasita was a tavern with fried foods and bar drinks. After a change of ownership, the dining room has calmed down and become homier, and the menu focuses on traditional cooking. Grab the city’s best gimbap to go — the two-inch-wide rolls, which resemble extra-large maki sushi but with added vegetables, make a perfect picnic food — or enjoy comforting noodle soups. Excellent chive pancakes have just barely enough batter to hold the veggies together.

Top pick: Choose your gimbap filling from bulgogi, spicy tuna or Spam; no matter what, they’re great, and an incredible bargain. ($$)