Chef Keunsik Lee, a Nobu veteran, presides over a thoughtful menu at this hidden spot in Irving. Some of the sushi items are traditional, but others reflect his Korean heritage or his decades of living in Texas, like the incorporation of wasabi into salsa verde, or the choice to top a spicy tuna roll with dollops of guacamole and yucca chips. If you want, you can even have your sashimi served on corn tortillas as a taco.

Top pick: The specialty here is in the name — a playful, fun, memorable omakase tasting in seven courses, in which Lee and his kitchen team will serve whatever they like, finishing with a parade of nigiri and sashimi. We also love the seaweed salad, a sampler that presents several varieties of seaweed in different dressings. ($)