At the end of a modest strip mall on Gaston Avenue sits Cry Wolf, where the fare is anything but unassuming. Chef Ross Demers’ technical skill and finesse are on full display here, with a menu that changes depending on what Demers and team can get in that week. Think of the menu sequentially from smaller dishes to larger, with the freedom to order as little or as much as you like. Cry Wolf is intimate and creative, casual while elegant, and a shining example of one of the best culinary experiences that Dallas has to offer. For example, on our most recent visit, we tried a braised leg of lamb served on a bed of tagliatelle pasta that was a sonnet.

Top pick: With a menu that changes so often, no two visits will ever be the same. For the prime experience, try to make a reservation at the chef’s table, the last four seats at the bar in front of the wood-fired grill, where you have a front-row seat as the kitchen makes the magic happen. ($$$)