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Shoals Sound & Service

2614 Elm St., Ste. 110
Dallas, TX 75226
Critics' Pick
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Shoals Sound & Service

courtesy of Omar Yeefoon Shoals' Omar Yeefoon

Some of Dallas’ best vegan food is coming from a business that, before the pandemic, was best-known as an easygoing, everyone-welcome cocktail bar. But Shoals executed one of the most impressive business model pivots in the city, transforming itself from a bar with absurdly indulgent fried bologna sandwiches into a Deep Ellum hub for creative vegan eats. This isn’t a spot where vegetables are asked to impersonate meats for dishes like vegan cheeseburgers; instead greens, lentils, mushrooms and more are called upon for their own great flavors. The exceptions are a barbecued jackfruit sandwich and a spicy, wonderful “ceviche” of shiitake mushrooms, cucumbers and jalapeños, with plantain chips for dipping.

Top pick: Grab a trio of empanadas with superbly flakey, bubbly vegan dough encasing fillings like mushroom and lentils or sweet coconut rice pudding. They’re an incredible picnic food, by the way.

The downside: Well, we did miss the cocktails, but Shoals reopened for in-person service in October, so that takes care of that.

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