Fearing's at the Ritz Carlton

The Ritz-Carlton’s swanky high-end restaurant from Dallas legend Dean Fearing is meant to be a city landmark for Southwestern cuisine. They definitely know their way around a cut of game — like bison tenderloin or thick, red slices of grilled antelope — and dessert can be downright joyous. But Fearing’s isn’t above gimmickry, like the world’s smallest crispy taco filled with a half-teaspoon of guacamole and served on a $26 appetizer sampler. All the drinks are afflicted by outrageous markups, even on water. Our waiter offered us “still or sparkling,” but did not disclose that “still” costs $9. Fearing’s is the kind of dining room in which tourists are charmed to see the glamorous, high-rolling old Dallas they expected, rather than discovering the restive new Dallas, which is evolving in bold directions at other restaurants. Fearing’s has merits, but in its category Town Hearth, Knife and Billy Can Can are the new leaders.