Hook, Line & Sinker

The fried shrimp and catfish fillets have a strong reputation-especially the catfish. Clean and straightforward, they provide a satisfying crunch without all the greasy residue. Fries may disappoint, and the gumbo can be good or mediocre, depending on the day. But the hush puppies have a welcome, savory heft, and there's plenty else to satisfy those who crave comfort in Southern-style seafood and a few beers.