With Starbucks, Subway and other corporate chains taking over every corner, consumers are given more and more choices every day. But these shops that try to do a little bit of everything often end up doing nothing very well. Sometimes you want a specialist who does one thing very well, and if you’re looking for a shul lung tang specialist, you’ll want to come to LA Han Bat. The ox bone soup is simple, but it’s rich and luxurious, embellished with slices of brisket and thin, glassy rice noodles. There’s chili paste on the table if you want more heat, and aromatic green onions that will help make a bowl your own. Of course there are a few more choices, but the whole menu of noodles, soups and dumplings fits on a single placard placed on every table. Other than that, the only choice you’ll have to make is how soon to return.