Oso Food and Wine

This North Dallas spot defies expectations, going beyond typical Middle Eastern restaurants to give diners something new to chew on. And that’s not at the expense of authenticity. The scent of sumac wafts up from the plate of sirloin beef, and nuts and fruits are used effectively to create complex dishes with plenty of character. Don’t skip the grilled tuna if you’re used to other restaurants plating the ruby fish in boring ways. Harissa and spicy yogurt make this a solid choice. And whole branzino dances with honey and a tart vinaigrette. The dining room is boring but the starters are not. Order the mezze platter if you have two or more diners at your table, and enjoy a mix of pureed eggplant, hummus, falafel and other Mediterranean preparations that are thoughtfully brought together on one plate. Dessert? Yes. Any of the choices here will soothe your sweet tooth.