100 Favorite Dishes, No. 5: At Canary, Fancy Toast is Better with Lamb Tongue

In honor of the 2017 Best of Dallas® issue, on newsstands now, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year. Avocado toast? That’s so 2015. At Canary by Gorji, the future of fancy toast has...

By Brian Reinhart

October 2, 2017

Lamb tongue crostini with Israeli-style pickles at Canary by Gorji. Brian Reinhart

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In honor of the 2017 Best of Dallas® issue, on newsstands now, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

Avocado toast? That’s so 2015. At Canary by Gorji, the future of fancy toast has arrived, and it involves lamb tongues. Act fast because this appetizer special may not last long; for now, though, lamb tongue crostini is turning heads at Canary, where chef-owner Mansour Gorji tops the meaty delicacy with very finely diced tomatoes, long slices of tart, Israeli-style pickles and a veritable blizzard of sumac, which helps bring a lemony brightness to the dish.

Ordering appetizers at Canary is hard — how can you ignore the fried sardines? — but this find feels like a true rarity. It also feels like Gorji is backing up his claim, made to the Observer in 2016, that his food doesn’t pay attention to what’s trendy or popular. He figures that he’ll keep doing what he does, and eventually the rest of the city will come around. We hope so.

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Brian Reinhart has been the Dallas Observer's food critic since spring 2016. In addition, he writes baseball analysis for the Hardball Times and covers classical music for the Observer and MusicWeb International.

Contact: Brian Reinhart

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Twitter: @bgreinhart