The Perils of Pizza-Brunch

Lots of people love Cane Rosso: The local franchize uses quality ingredients on pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven. But at the Deep Ellum location, where pizza shines at dinner, brunch currently yields a pizza topped with unsalted eggs and a flavorless frittata.

The redeeming factor is the bloody mary ($8.50), prepared with plenty of spice as requested and brightly balanced. If Cap’n Crunch was a favorite cereal of yours as a kid — or if it still is — the cereal waffles ($12) with Cap’n Crunch waffles, condensed milk syrup and Fruity Pebbles might be your thing.

The breakfast taco pizza ($16) sounds interesting enough with chorizo, tater tots, onions, candied jalapenos, mozzarella, egg and cilantro-crema. As Cane Rosso fans know, these pizzas are best eaten quickly and with gusto, before the crust gets soggy. This breakfast taco broke our hearts a little with an unseasoned egg that, when sliced into, quickly yielded a soggy crust, and things got messy.

This “tater tot hash” came as a side to the breakfast frittata ($13), made with eggs, goat cheese, herbs, roasted red peppers, spinach, cream cheese and pesto. It's also topped with a large, delightful arugula salad. The frittata itself proved low on flavor. The salad was more enticing.

If the breakfast pizza isn't a win, the $2 mimosas certainly are. And for plenty of the Deep Ellum brunch crowd, that's likely to be enough.

Cane Rosso, 2612 Commerce St. (Deep Ellum). Brunch served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.