Sumo Shack at SMU is a Haven For Late-Night Snacks | Dallas Observer
Navigation

Sake Juice Boxes, Tokyo Dogs and Burger Bao: The New Sumo Shack Masters the Late-Night Snack

The first bao to land in front of me is the Angry Bird. The chicken has been brined in soy sauce, peppercorns, salt, sugar, vinegar, tossed in follow-up marinade, then given a coat of panko and flash0fried. Dill pickles, the ones that like to sit in your fridge for months,...
From left to right: Angry bird: a take on Nashville’s hot fried chicken melted American cheese; Fish Bao: fried cod, cold slaw, tarter sauce and spicy mayo; Pork belly Bao: pork belly, Japanese mayo, peanuts, cilantro
From left to right: Angry bird: a take on Nashville’s hot fried chicken melted American cheese; Fish Bao: fried cod, cold slaw, tarter sauce and spicy mayo; Pork belly Bao: pork belly, Japanese mayo, peanuts, cilantro Kathy Tran
Share this:
The first bao to land in front of me is the Angry Bird. The chicken has been brined in soy sauce, peppercorns, salt, sugar and vinegar, tossed in follow-up marinade, then given a coat of panko and flash-fried. Dill pickles, the ones that like to sit in your fridge for months, surround the chicken under molten American cheese. One bite in and it's obvious that chef Dien Nguyen has got something here.

click to enlarge
The interior at Sumo Shack.
Kathy Tran
Sumo Shack, a sister restaurant to Lowest Greenville's Wabi House, opened this week on SMU Boulevard in the space that previously held the Banh Shop, and there’s reason to be feel a jolt of food excitement. Late-night bao with hot fried chicken, crispy cod, a Philly cheesesteak nod and a burger? College student drunk food has evolved, and this drunk food is available until 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

“I was tired of going to eat at Whataburger,” Nguyen says with a laugh.

Inventive fare aside, there are also sake juice boxes, sake-ritas with muddled fruit and fast bites that taste unlike anything on the block. SMU is going to dig this new spot.

The Tokyo Dog is made with house-made, Wagyu-blend beef sausage with a neat pile of bonito flakes, scallion, caramelized onion and nori, which stirs up an aroma of the sea. The Angry Bird Bao is crispy and delicious with a Chick-Fil-A flavor profile that beats anything Chick-Fil-A does.

click to enlarge
The Tokyo Dog, made with beef sausage, bonito flakes, nori, scallion, sesame seeds, spicy ketchup and kewpie mayo.
Kathy Tran
Has there ever been a burger bao in Dallas? This has got to be the first one, and novelty bun aside, it's excellent. A scatter of crunchy bacon bits on top feels like an homage to Baco’s, and it's nostalgic and thrilling at the same time.

Of course, there’s ramen, matcha ice cream in a deep fried bun drizzled with condensed milk, and corndogs. There’s also takoyaki, deep fried balls with dashes of octopus inside. Those are drizzled with the melted American cheese, bonito and nori.

click to enlarge
Red bean and macha ice cream served in deep-fried bao buns.
Kathy Tran
“I traveled a lot, and every city has a their signature bao,” Nguyen says. Whether or not this will become Dallas' signature bao is yet to be seen, but there's potential in Sumo Shack.

Nguyen is playing with a secret, off-menu roster of bao that gives even more incentive to hit this place up more than once. For now, we're just happy to have inventive bao and ramen that we can scarf down at 3 a.m.

Sumo Shack, 5629 SMU Blvd.


KEEP THE OBSERVER FREE... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we'd like to keep it that way. Your membership allows us to continue offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food, and culture with no paywalls. You can support us by joining as a member for as little as $1.