100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 81: the Coleslaw at Cattleack BBQ

Am I crazy for writing my "100 Favorite Dishes" love letter to ... the coleslaw?
Am I crazy for writing my "100 Favorite Dishes" love letter to ... the coleslaw? Brian Reinhart
Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

Okay, this might be heretical. At a restaurant that serves glorious Texas Monthly-lauded meats like pastrami-spiced burnt ends, it might even be seen as insane. But for as awesome as everything is at Cattleack BBQ, a humble veggie side dish might be MVP.

Say you get a big ol’ tray with three kinds of meat. You want to try some turkey with the peppery house rub, you want to try a slab of fatty brisket and there’s no way you’re missing out on the spicy Texas sausage link. Those are some bold flavors — and the equally vivid, almost curry-like barbecue sauce adds another dimension.

So what’s going to manage all that meaty madness? How do you hit refresh on your taste buds after a juicy bite of sausage? Coleslaw. Vinegar-based, mayo-free, well-peppered coleslaw, tasting as fresh and bright as a sunny spring morning. It has just the right tang and crispness to serve as a faithful sherpa as you climb Mount Meat.

Because here’s what really makes that coleslaw Cattleack’s MVP: Eating it magically helps you eat more barbecue, too.
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Brian Reinhart has been the Dallas Observer's food critic since spring 2016. In addition, he writes baseball analysis for the Hardball Times and covers classical music for the Observer and MusicWeb International.
Contact: Brian Reinhart

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