Rapscallion, the much-anticipated Greenville Avenue bistro, debuted to an elbow-to-elbow crowd Tuesday night. The Anderson brothers, owners of Veritas Wine Bar and Boulevardier, partnered with chef Nathan Tate to create the new spot, which features an extensive drink menu and a 120-bottle wine list.
Led by Tate, the kitchen serves up many traditional Southern dishes with playful surprises. Take, for example, the curry-scented pork belly cracklins. The “fried pickles” feature zero pickled cucumbers (instead it's an assortment of other pickled vegetables such as green beans and onions). Their “Long Walk to Nashville” version of fried chicken is brined, “rotisserized” and fried, with a treatment of fragrant Szechuan mala sauce.
The menu showcases a diverse selection of flavors. For starters, in addition to snacks like cabrito kebab, you’ll find “mostly raw” selections such as dry-aged rib eye carpaccio and coriander-cured yellowtail. Items such as grilled cauliflower steaks and fermented collard greens make up the “vegetable and grains” section. Main dishes include a grass-fed burger with three-cheese pimento and cornmeal-dusted catfish with littleneck clams, black eyed peas and comeback sauce.
The beverage menu offers numerous options to complement your meal. The signature Rapscallion, a blend of Rap R(h)um, Carpano, and cacao nib-infused Campari, is the star of their cocktail menu. On draft, local beers predominate, such as Lakewood Brewing Co.’s Hopochondria American IPA. The wine list, offering sparkling, white, red, and rose options, is as virtually limitless as you would hope for from the wine curators who fathered Veritas.
For dessert, you have options between cakes, crumbles and floats. Their twist on pineapple upside down cake features cardamom caramel, and chocolate sheath cake is accompanied by horchata ice cream. Floats get a creative touch as well, such as the Kentucky Stand Off, with Knob Creek bourbon ice cream, Dr Pepper and peanut brittle. And, of course, the Anderson brothers would be remiss if they didn't offer a selection of dessert wines.
At Rapscallion, the vibe is relaxed, drawing a crowd from all walks of life. Cowboy-hatted dads with kids in tow are as welcome as mohawked tattoo artists or actual rapscallions. Instead of loud music, the soundtrack is conversation and the clatter of dishes. The restaurant space itself, with its neutral color palette and clean lines, is minimalist — the perfect canvas for the food’s bold flavors.
Rapscallion is open for dinner at 5:30, Tuesday through Sunday.
2023 Greenville Ave., facebook.com/rapscalliondallas.