A Second (But Still Shitty) Life for Bluefin Tuna, the 600-Pound Chicken of the Sea

Wednesday is Arts and Life and Style Day at the nation's newspapers, which, believe it or not, still contain no small amount of interesting food news. Our Wednesday Feed highlights the best of it.

Tim Carman at The Washington Post illuminates the faltered economy may not be so stagnant -- at least for fine dining. How does $250 sound, for a 24 -course meal administered one bite at a time?

In The New York Times, Jane Black pens a localvore pioneer in the Appalachian mountains. Unlike most restaurants that play in this space, the Harvest Table only charges around $15 a plate.

The paper also professes its love for the humble taco, with a recipe or three you might like to try.

And then there's that bluefin.

Could sustainable bluefin no-longer be an oxymoron? The Los Angeles Times reports that Umami, an Icelandic seafood conglomerate, is in the bluefin farming business. Guilt-free otoro for all? Not really ...

Bluefin tuna, which average 600 pounds at maturity, are notoriously difficult to breed in captivity, so ranches such as Baja Aquafarms must catch wild tuna, only to fatten them up to increase the yield of meat. But because the fishermen are taking from an already depleted population of fish, the sustainability of such practices is questionable.

Bluefin farming, like salmon, catfish, talapia, shrimp and every other aquaculture, comes with its own environmental concerns.

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