Restaurant Reviews

Almost home-cooking

Page 3 of 3

The veal piccata was utterly dumbfounding. Not only did the thin slice of veal have an off flavor, as if it had been freezer-burned, the thing was drowning in an overly acidic gelatinous white wine butter sauce speckled with capers. The light flour coating on the veal thickened the sauce to the point that it covered the meat like a layer of slime. A side of pasta with marinara sauce was served on the same plate with the veal--an odd pairing indeed.

That odd freezer-burned meat flavor carried over to the roasted leg of lamb, which, slightly tough and very fatty, was sliced and served in a port reduction with sauteed carrots, mushrooms, onions, and celery. While the sauce was fair, the meat was unrecoverable.

Other selections were a bit of an improvement. The baked lasagna, with ground beef and veal, had a variety of cheeses including ricotta, mozzarella, asiago, a touch of cream cheese for smoothness, and a melted blanket of smoked provolone over the top. But the sauce had no rich zestiness, and despite the use of fresh basil, oregano, and garlic, the whole construction tasted completely unseasoned. The vegetable pizza was perhaps the best thing tried here. With green olives, red and green bell peppers, red onions, and mushrooms, the pizza had a crisp, chewy crust, the perfect smothering of cheeses and crisp vegetables. The sauce, however, was a bit lame.

Which at least denotes a high degree of consistency, something that will help your meal go down easier. Especially if you're coming here to celebrate the purchase of a car from the place next door.

Bon Vivant. 1801 Preston Road, Plano, (972) 818-1177. Open daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

Paesano's. 508 E. 14th Street, Plano, (972) 578-2727. Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday 4 p.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

E-mail your comments to Mark Stuertz at [email protected].

Bon Vivant:
Caesar salad $3.99
Peppermill turkey sandwich $4.79
Roasted half-chicken $2.99
Sesame chicken $6.79/lb
Chicken and vegetable calzone $5.29
Grilled ribeye $10.29

Paesano's:
Minestrone $4.95
Mussels pomodoro $6.95
Vegetable pizza $8.95
Baked lasagna $7.95
Veal piccata $12.95
Roasted leg of lamb $12.95

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Mark Stuertz
Contact: Mark Stuertz