What did you learn from John during that time? Collier: I think the main thing I got was ... I really appreciated his eye. He would tell me straight-up if he liked something or not. You don't always find that and for me it was refreshing. I appreciated his openness coupled with the trust. It was: 'Here's the ball and run with it. And if you run the wrong way, I'll let you know, otherwise, have at it.'

Honesty can be liberating. Do you agree? Collier: I do, and that's something I look forward to. It's liberating and a little bit inspiring too.

John, at what point does a restaurant decide to bring in a pastry chef? Tesar: It's a very simple answer, but complicated procedure. You have to plan for it. And a lot of times you can't afford it when the desserts don't bring in the financial return you expect from the business. It has to do with how much a chef wants to work and their own expectations for their restaurant. I strive to be different, but different for the sake of offering an experience that you can't find here in Dallas. Having a world-class pastry chef here makes our restaurant stronger and something different for the city. Part of my dream is to make a miniature Le Bernadin for Dallas, to get or not get. People who come to Spoon every night really seem to get it.

And, at 55 years old, I just do what I feel is right.