When a restaurant you love closes and another replaces it, you might not be dying to see what they’ve done to the place.
For Bitter End, which sits at the corner of Elm Street and South Malcolm X Boulevard, this restaurant, which occupies what was once IdleRye, does a fair job. Where the bar was is now an oyster bar, and where a partially open kitchen was, you'll now find the main bar. And TV screens are everywhere.
For brunch, Bitter End offers a simple menu. Brunch cocktails include a Michelada ($10), a “big-ass mimosa” ($15) and a bloody mary ($9). Unfortunately, it’s yet another place with a subpar bloody mary mix.
Brunch-wise, there’s nothing to really complain about here. Though looking at the menu, nothing jumps out as a must-have. Avocado toasts ($10) and steak and eggs ($15) present some tried-and-true options, but we know how they’ll taste. A California benedict ($11) offers the standard with added avocado.
The most interesting items include the White Trash Hash ($10). If you like tater tots, this can be your thing, especially if you really want an entire plate of them.
The tots are well made and topped with poblano cheese sauce, bacon, scallions and a poached egg. It feels like an exaggerated side plate. It’s possible an extra egg could help that.
The Chick Magnet ($11) ended up being the best item on the table. A house-made cheddar biscuit that’s good enough to eat on its own sandwiches a crispy chicken thigh. Throw in some provolone melted to a crisp, brush the whole thing with a jalapeno honey and you’ve got something to savor.
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It’s a good plate – but more importantly, it provides hope for the restaurant. The biscuit is quite perfect, and the fried chicken thigh is some of the best fried chicken around right now. A crispy batter covering a perfectly moist meat goes a long, satisfying way.
Add some creativity to this menu and it might be worth return visits for brunch. That or maybe a cheap mimosa.
Bitter End, 2826 Elm St. (Deep Ellum)