The Perils of Pizza-Brunch

The breakfast taco pizza ($16) at Cane Rosso in Deep Ellum
The breakfast taco pizza ($16) at Cane Rosso in Deep Ellum Taylor Adams
Lots of people love Cane Rosso: The local franchize uses quality ingredients on pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven. But at the Deep Ellum location, where pizza shines at dinner, brunch currently yields a pizza topped with unsalted eggs and a flavorless frittata.

The redeeming factor is the bloody mary ($8.50), prepared with plenty of spice as requested and brightly balanced. If Cap’n Crunch was a favorite cereal of yours as a kid — or if it still is — the cereal waffles ($12) with Cap’n Crunch waffles, condensed milk syrup and Fruity Pebbles might be your thing.

click to enlarge The best part of brunch at Cane Rosso: the spicy bloody mary ($8.50). - TAYLOR ADAMS
The best part of brunch at Cane Rosso: the spicy bloody mary ($8.50).
Taylor Adams
The breakfast taco pizza ($16) sounds interesting enough with chorizo, tater tots, onions, candied jalapenos, mozzarella, egg and cilantro-crema. As Cane Rosso fans know, these pizzas are best eaten quickly and with gusto, before the crust gets soggy. This breakfast taco broke our hearts a little with an unseasoned egg that, when sliced into, quickly yielded a soggy crust, and things got messy.

This “tater tot hash” came as a side to the breakfast frittata ($13), made with eggs, goat cheese, herbs, roasted red peppers, spinach, cream cheese and pesto. It's also topped with a large, delightful arugula salad. The frittata itself proved low on flavor. The salad was more enticing.

click to enlarge The breakfast frittata ($13) - TAYLOR ADAMS
The breakfast frittata ($13)
Taylor Adams
If the breakfast pizza isn't a win, the $2 mimosas certainly are. And for plenty of the Deep Ellum brunch crowd, that's likely to be enough.

Cane Rosso, 2612 Commerce St. (Deep Ellum). Brunch served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
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Taylor Adams has written about the restaurant industry for the Dallas Observer since 2016. Now the Observer's food editor, she attended Southern Methodist University before covering local news at The Dallas Morning News.