Chef Garreth Dickey didn’t take a break when moving from the Cedar Springs DISH location to the Preston Hollow address when it opened last year — he’s only expanded his ingenuity. The Cedar Springs location temporarily closed at the end of February as preparations are underway to launch a new, more casual dinner and brunch option that will be known as Cedar Grove. But right now, the focus is on DISH Preston Hollow.
Charcuterie has become prevalent on every menu around DFW, but what Dickey has done with his version is anything but common. While chef Graham Dodds at Wayward Sons adapted veggies into his form of charcuterie, Dickey steered in another direction by offering seafood. Meticulously created scallop and lobster sausage takes it up a notch with two distinct seafood flavors combined into one nautical dream. The tuna pâté gives way to a desirable taste without the bold tone of what we’ve come to expect from the fish, but the most attractive flavor on the board was the combination of smoked and white wine salmon.
The Rumbullion is a refreshingly medium-spirited drink for the rum lover in us all. Light on the front end, the back end is where you’ll discover subtle and refreshing cardamom and apple bitters. Landry said this drink has become so popular, it has remained past the fall/winter menus it was created for. The Smoked Chile Rita is a bit saucier, as the tequila is warm and soothing with sweetness from agave nectar and citrus, then followed by the charred redemption of a hickory-smoked salted brim. The wine list is extensive, edging on the side of affordable by glass, but it would make more sense to order by the bottle. Smoot has no problem dissecting your preference and narrowing it down to various regions of a wine’s origin.
While deciding on drinks, order what may be the tallest deviled eggs in Dallas. These white ovals come nearly three inches tall and topped with applewood-smoked bacon and a zingy pickled red onion. The lightly breaded salt and pepper fried calamari are another go-to, as they sit on top of a layer of spicy buffalo butter.
If you've got an appetite, take on the sizable bourbon-glazed pork chop. Cooked to order and tender to cut, this grilled slab does not become tedious with each bite, but more addictive. Salmon is pretty generic when it comes to most menus, but Dickey's roasted salmon comes garnished with an avocado and crabmeat relish. Separately, they're what you would expect; but together, dipped in the jalapeño blanc with Brussels sprout petals, you’ve got one of the better salmon dishes in Dallas.
For sides, the jalapeño mac and cheese is full flavor sans the heat. This isn’t your run-of-the-mill mac — the mesh of cheese with the onion crust and jalapeño sets a standard for what can often be a so-so offering on most menus.
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With such a solid menu, one thing's for sure: Chef Dickey has raised the bar at DISH, and we can expect more to come from this group.