4
| Burgers |

Clark Food and Wine Company Revitalized Their Burger, But Is It Any Better?

^
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

This burger was different a couple of years ago. In 2014, I stopped into Clark Food and Wine, then a recent addition to the ever-changing Greenville restaurant bustle, and had an interesting burger. A single grilled patty, topped with a disc of stained-glass crispy speck and house jardinera. It’s probably the first time I’ve had pickled carrots and cauliflower on a burger, and, surprisingly, it wasn’t weird. It definitely wasn’t simple. The patty was medium rare, but it was missing out on that ecstatic flavor of fire from the grill. 

Today, their burger has changed. It's going around these days: Upscale cheeseburgers that call up memories of simple cheeseburgers. Gone is that crispy, hammy speck and the pickled vegetables. Clark’s burger is now two grilled patties topped with American cheese. Whirls of iceberg lettuce, enjoying a bath of their “sloppy sauce,” rest underneath the patties. Two thick pickle discs, and pink pickled onion like fine strings, are pinned on top of each other over the soft bun. It has a more familiar look.

So, is it always better to do simple, old-fashioned cheeseburgers? My favorite burgers on the planet are simple cheeseburgers with melted cheese (American always works), pickle and finely-sheared onion, but not every burger has to feel the same. A burger isn’t made great only by being simple. The greatness comes in the impeccable attention to simple details.

The thin patties are now packed with good, smoky char from the grill, but it needs that hard sear you’d want in a double cheeseburger. Bunches of iceberg lettuce feels excessive beneath the patties. The “sloppy sauce” is tangy and memorable, but it isn’t a substitute for stupendous meat juices.

Several bites in, I'm feeling like something's missing, like a guitar with a couple of strings out of tune. I untangle a few pickled onions and put them below the patties. It adds a puckering crunch. The fries are delicious.

It makes sense to revitalize the look and feel of a cheeseburger based on what works. If it ain’t broke, and such. But Clark Food and Wine’s burger still feels like it's reaching.

Clark Food & Wine Co., 1920 Greenville Ave.

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.