I'd heard this morning The Commissary had closed. Chef David McMillian, who ran the place in tandem with Screen Door, wasn't picking up his phone so I ran over after lunch to see if there was anyone else to talk with. That's when I ran into this guy.
"Is Commissary closed?" I asked him. "Yeah, they're turning it into a new restaurant," he said, and he pointed to the paper sign taped to the door.
The sign read...
WE APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVENIENCE, THE COMMISSARY HAS CLOSED.
WE'RE EXCITED TO ANNOUNCE OUR NEW RESTAURANT...Meze small plates... wine bar
...PART OF THE ZIZIKI'S FAMILYOPENING IN SEPTEMBER, 2012
"The Commissary is cloooooosed," the worker said again, tugging away on that vinyl. "They used to do burgers didn't they?"
I thought back to the few meals I'd had there. There was a really good burger. Then another one. Then a bottle of rose wine I fell head over heels for. And then a really big bottle of super boozy beer. "I kinda miss them already," I said, and I mostly meant it. When the weather was nice, having a burger or a glass of wine on the patio was a good way to spend your time.
And then I walked over to Screen Door and their lights were out. I wondered if they had gone under, too, but it was Monday and they're always closed on Monday so it wasn't anything special. That's why McMillan didn't pick up the phone.
I'll call him back tomorrow.
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.