100 Favorite Dishes, No. 20: Yes, This Really Is Lasagna

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 20: Yes, This Really Is LasagnaEXPAND
Brian Reinhart
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

This summer, the Nameless Chefs — a collective of chefs who work in some of Dallas’ finest kitchens but seek an additional outlet for their most creative work — presented a multi-course pop-up dinner in sculptor Dan Lam’s studio at the Fairmont Hotel. The theme was familiar comfort-food flavors reimagined, including Caesar salad presented as a soup and a wagyu “Salisbury” steak.

Oh, and that picture? That’s lasagna. It’s the culinary version of an optical illusion, in which things aren’t as they seem and flavors don’t match appearances. That bowl contains a sweetbread ravioli topped with a sort of chorizo jam, tomatoes, lobster mushrooms (so named for their bright red color) and, most memorably, a broth made by intentionally burning cheese rinds and incorporating them in a Parmesan stock.

The result — which, inspiringly, came from chefs Jeremy Hess and Joshua Gianni Ferrell working independently on different components of the dish without consulting each other — really tasted uncannily like lasagna. The form may have been turned upside-down, but the flavor was spot-on. Keep an eye on the Nameless Chefs: This is just one example of what they can do, and, contrary to the group’s name, these artists are names to watch in the next big wave of creative Dallas cooking.

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.