Picture the old Safety Glass on Davis Street, just down the road from Lockhart Smokehouse. Now completely erase that picture, because other than the address, everything has changed. A construction crew moved load-bearing pillars to make way for a new door, changing the facade of the building. They gutted the interior and raised the roof two feet to give the dining room more space. They poured a new concrete floor and redid the plumbing. While the exterior walls are as old as dirt, Stock and Barrel is essentially a brand new restaurant.

As for what you'll see when the work is done, picture an expansive, dog-friendly patio outside. If Stevens makes his April deadline you just might have a week of out door drinking to enjoy before the pavement starts so get soft. Inside, a large open kitchen flanked by a counter with 14 stools will let the civilians get up close to the action.

Steven promises high quality ingredients, and he plans to work with a wood-burning grill and rotisserie, his vent stacks perfuming West Davis Street with the smells of roast suckling pig and other meats.

You can expect handmade pastas and dumplings, pus an odd and serious commitment to the french fry. Stevens says he's dedicating an entire section of the menu to the golden spud with various sauces.