Eat This

Gennarino's Should Be Parked On Your Lawn, Not in an Irving Parking Lot

Today I tracked down the new food truck Gennarino's, which serves Neapolitan-style fried food and is owned by three brothers from Naples, Italy. It's just their second day in business and they were parked between two office buildings in Irving just off of Hwy 161. They'd be parked in Dallas, no doubt, but they can't get the required permits here.

The whole scene made me both happy and sad. Happy because brothers Raffaele, Armando and Alessio were really nice and the food was great. Sad because the remote parking lot they were toiling away in was like putting baby in a corner. They really should be in the spotlight.

I tried several different items on the menu. The Granny's Sunday gravy sandwich had meatballs and pork loin covered in homemade tomato sauce with mozzarella and parmesan. I also tried several of their "small bites," including a risotto ball made with Bolognese sauce and another with mushrooms. The most interesting was a timballo rosso, which is fried spaghetti and meatballs.

Today, for an appetizer, they were giving out zeppoline salate, which are simply fried dough bites served with a side of their homemade marinara sauce. These were simple and heavenly.

They told me their marinara sauce is made from scratch daily, "Just like Mom used to make it."

The ambiance was obviously lacking though. As hard as I tried, I just couldn't channel the Naples street-food scene. But they've only just begun and I'm sure they'll figure out the angles to getting some better spots.

On Wednesday they'll be back in Irving at 600 E. John Carpenter Fwy from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and at 7720 N MacArthur from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Check out their facebook page for daily updates.

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Lauren Drewes Daniels is the Dallas Observer's food editor. She started writing about local restaurants, chefs, beer and kouign-amanns in 2011. She's driven through two dirt devils and is certain they were both some type of cosmic force.

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