First Look

Good 2 Go Taco Leaves the Gas Station Behind with New Digs That Seem Downright Palatial

Good 2 Go Taco finally has a permanent home. After plans of rolling out a taco truck operation and a segment on Food Network's Best Thing I Ever Ate, co-owners Jeana Johnson and Colleen O'Hare closed their continuously packed space in the back of The Green Spot in late August 2010. The mobile food-vending project was put on the back burner. But the owners weren't about to be down for the count. Johnson and O'Hare began catering and planning a brick-and-mortar outlet. Last week, their plans came to fruition in East Dallas, and their loyal customers, the tacoheads, came a-running.

Back on the menu are the specialty tacos produced with gourmet ingredients, which are sourced within 200 miles. "Except for the cilantro. We're having a hard time sourcing that," Johnson told me at the cash register. The opening menu is limited but not for long. The tacos are split into two categories: Rise and Shine (breakfast) and Afternoon Delight (lunch). Some of the tacos include the ever-popular Hotlanta with waffle-battered chicken and the vegetarian Curry in a Hurry with bok choy and shitakes.

By the time I arrived, the kitchen was already out of the SoCo breakfast taco, a carb-loaded concoction with biscuit and gravy that seems ideal for launching the eater into his/her day, assuming a cup of coffee from the Stir Coffee's counter inside.

The tacos are served in a dining room that is mid-century industrial accented by exposed ductwork with rustic touches applied by the use of reclaimed wood. Compared to its former digs at The Green Spot, the East Dallas location is a palace. In this palace sit mostly middle-class customers who can afford such inventive gourmet treats -- even the hip mama with dreads shouted moderate privilege. The same goes for the young man in the orange blazer coiffed with a skyscraper Mohawk, who along with the rest of us waited at least 45 minutes to order. Nevertheless, with such delicious fare, four dollars seems like a bargain.

Good 2 Go Taco 1146 Peavy Road 214-668-0831

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José Ralat Maldonado