4
| Brunch |

Happiest Hour's New #ButFirstBrunch Has Harwood Swimming in Hollandaise

^
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Located in the Harwood district, Happiest Hour occupies one of the center cuts of Dallas' dining real estate. It's also a massive piece of realty with over 12,000 square feet of space that has been given the modern industrial treatment. You've seen it before: Edison bulbs, oversize tubular furniture, hosts and hostesses who have a chameleon-esque air about them. And perhaps you truly have seen it before, either in person or on social media, because since its inception one year ago, Happiest Hour has become a fashionably selfie-conducive spot to take in the Dallas skyline and imbibe a cocktail or two. 

Having established itself as an evening haunt for dining and drinking and feeling quasi-fabulous, Happiest Hour set its sights on the a.m. crowd. — or rather, the sometime before 3 p.m. crowd. Last weekend marked the restaurant's third week of brunch service — which they so millennially refer to as #ButFirstBrunch — and it turned out to be a hollandaise lover's dream.

The five-item menu is either anemic or selectively curated, depending on your outlook. A stack of heavenly looking ricotta pancakes was served with a landslide of fruit compote and Nutella pebbles. (Other restaurants should take note of Happiest Hour's 2:1 pancake-to-topping ratio.) Other options include house-made biscuits smothered in a spicy venison gravy and shrimp and grits bathed in Cajun cream sauce. 

Two dishes on Happy Hour's menu pay a lemony, buttery tribute to everyone's favorite a.m. mother sauce. The Benedict ($12) rests two lovely little crab cakes — sizzled until their tops and bottoms turned crunchy and amber, with tangles of pure, sweet lump crab inside — atop the craggy halves of a toasty English muffin. Hidden beneath the cakes were a few thin slices of sauteed asparagus, which added a nice crunch and bit of freshness to a dish that's otherwise made rich with poached eggs and pale, Easter egg-yellow hollandaise bathing it all in a silken, citrus embrace.

The rise and shine ($11), meanwhile, made for a breakfast sandwich of the utmost variety. Two slices of sourdough bun cradled strip after strip of thick-cut bacon that was crisp but not brittle. A smear of avocado, curls of golden shoestring potatoes and a couple of fried eggs dressed out the sandwich. And yes, there was more hollandaise, which this time paraded its way down the bread and onto the plate. Taken together, this fork-and-knife sandwich is truly something to get out of bed for. But after you eat it, of course, you'll need a good long nap. 

Happiest Hour, 2616 Olive St. Brunch served 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.