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Cocktails and Tots Steal the Show at Hide's New Deep Ellum Brunch

The cocktails are the best part of Hide’s menu. The old fashioned ($11) comes prepared in a jar. A fortune cookie-like paper floats in the cocktail, reading “Hide” in case you forget where you’re drinking.EXPAND
The cocktails are the best part of Hide’s menu. The old fashioned ($11) comes prepared in a jar. A fortune cookie-like paper floats in the cocktail, reading “Hide” in case you forget where you’re drinking.
Taylor Adams

When a place that serves seriously good cocktails starts serving brunch, it’s worth trying out.

The cocktails at Hide in Deep Ellum — which recently launched Saturday and Sunday brunch — still shine, even before noon. For a sweet but delicious start, you can try the Chickory Dickory Dock ($12), which has Irish whiskey, chicory root, cold brew coffee, chai tea, sherry, black walnut bitters and sweetened condensed milk.

The Gin and Juice ($10) is a simpler one, with gin and clarified grapefruit (which provides a more potent and welcome citrus taste).

If rosé is more your thing, you can opt for the Rosé All Day ($11), which will get you rosé, gin, grapefruit, lavender and rosehip. And if mimosas are your go-to, you can get that here, too: $5 per glass, $30 for a carafe.

The breakfast on a stick sharable plate ($9) has a pancake batter around a sausage. It’s a safe attempt with a lackluster result.EXPAND
The breakfast on a stick sharable plate ($9) has a pancake batter around a sausage. It’s a safe attempt with a lackluster result.
Taylor Adams

The “snacks” portion of the menu means starters. If sweets are to your liking, the monkey bread ($6) offers fluffy cinnamon bread with cream cheese icing. If you want something more like fair food, the breakfast on a stick ($9) has three pancake-wrapped sausages served with maple butter and cinnamon-vanilla syrup. It’s decent, but not all that interesting.

The dirty tots ($8) are a better option — then again, it might be hard to mess up tater tots that are topped with bacon lardons, pickled jalapenos, Oaxaca cheese sauce and shredded sharp cheddar.

The main brunch menu is a decent size, with 14 items. You can get a basic breakfast ($11) with scrambled eggs, bacon, tater tot hash, toast and jam, or a cheeseburger ($11) with two beef patties, American cheese, beer onions, bacon, garlic aioli, bread and butter pickles served with fries.

The biscuits and gravy ($9) are served with two giant biscuits, which are actually quite good, but one is plenty considering their size. The chorizo gravy is an admirable change of pace from other sausage gravies, but it’s just OK. Two eggs come on the plate (the menu says over easy, but you’ll still get your own option.)

The baked eggs sound good and come with three options. The arrabiata ($11) features Parmesan, arrabiata sauce and arugula; the ham and cheese ($12) has ham, Gruyere, fontina and breadcrumbs; and the boscaiola ($13) gets you wild mushrooms, mozzarella and sausage.

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Opting for the arrabiata to see how they execute the basic one can be a disappointment. The sauce doesn’t taste like it’s made back of house, and the eggs were overcooked on a recent visit. If there’s one thing that can kill a breakfast, it’s overcooked eggs. Hide's brunch is new, so there's time to work out the kinks.

The biscuits and gravy at Hide ($9) change things up a bit with chorizo gravy.EXPAND
The biscuits and gravy at Hide ($9) change things up a bit with chorizo gravy.
Taylor Adams

Honestly, if you drink throughout your meal, you’ll stay satisfied. The drinks are seriously done well here. Bartender Trey Buquoi especially makes well-developed and executed cocktails, and you’ll get the best Paloma you’ve ever had.

Hide, 2816 Elm St. (Deep Ellum). Brunch served 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

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