Restaurant Reviews

Hot Dish

There's one good thing about Tuesdays: hot duck fat. Le Char-donnay serves confit of duck every Tuesday, and if the week looks long, I suggest you stop in for lunch or dinner and take comfort in confit. To prepare confit, a country specialty of Burgundy, you cook the duck meat very slowly in fat; according to Le Chardonnay's owner, Michel Baudoin, "the duck is actually candied in the melted fat." Le Chardonnay presents a duck leg and thigh--with most of the fat drained off--glistening and brown, on a tangle of fettucine mixed with vegetables in brown rosemary sauce. The meat slides from the bone, oiled and tender and utterly satisfying. This is as rich a dish as you could hope to find--or dare to eat. Happy Tuesday.

Le Chardonnay, 500 Crescent Court, Suite 165, 922-4555.

--Mary Brown Malouf

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