Boulevardier, the subject of this week's review, has received nothing but gushing press until Leslie Brenner reviewed the restaurant for The Dallas Morning News last week. For the most part, I agree with Leslie's review, but I think there are some great things to focus on should you pay Oak Cliff's newest bistro a visit.
If I were to go back to Boulevardier on my own dime, here's how I'd tackle it.
Start with the raw bar: The oysters at Boulevardier are perfect, and while some restaurants charge more than $3 a shell, they come in at $2.50 here.
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Stick to the small plates: The Texas quail is masterfully cooked, and the charcuterie board is the best I've had since moving to Dallas. Crawfish beignets? They're light, fluffy and full of flavor. The prices here are more than fair and the dishes deliver big.
Look to the burger: It's a show-stopper topped with cheese, perfect house-cured bacon and comes with a side of killer fries.
Be wary of big plates: You'll lose your shirt on the prices, and the execution just isn't there yet. If you want to go big, avoid the roast chicken and lamb's neck and opt for the steak frites or the bouillabaisse instead.
Eat this way and you'll walk out of of this restaurant singing chef Nathan Tate's praises. Order some of the other plates and you might wonder what all the commotion has been about.