| Burgers |

I Don't Know What's Happening at So & So's, but the Burger Is Amazing

Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

A few feet behind the bar at So and So's is a deer wearing a bright red t-shirt. Playing cards are stuck to the wall like they were sprayed on, and nearby a S&S logo has a single, sheathed knife below it. Also behind the bar: A tiny giraffe is sitting on keys of a piano that looks like it was found in Titanic wreckage. Like the Gap-clothed deer, the giraffe looks deep in thought sitting on the rotten keys.

I have no idea what the hell is going on at So & So's, but it is good. Cocktails, like a Pimm's Cup, are on draft. Chicken and dumplings come with Parmesan gnocchi, there's a boat load of pizzas (including a breakfast pizza with sausage gravy?!?), and a painting on the Easterly wall of two Colonial-style boats chasing each other in shafts of sunlight. It's like someone plucked bits of restaurants around the globe, shook them up in a wooden barrel and dumped them into Uptown.

The Lady Friend and I ordered a Caesar salad, chicken and dumplings, and a burger. The Caesar came like a steakhouse salad, with bouqets of Romaine, crisp baguette and awesome piles of Parmesan Reggiano with black pepper. Our staff critic has been eating here lately and will have a full review next week, but for me a lot of this was punch-own-face satisfying.

The reason for my visit -- that burger -- was immediately special. It comes on a Challah bun with a slathering of bacon shallot aioli, which are the best three words I've written in a while. I asked for medium rare and it was the most spot-on medium rare I've gotten since the burger at Knife that ruined previous burgers. A rush of juices flooded the wooden cutting board, right up to the pickle. You can see the glorious meat swimming pool in the photo. I wanted to wrap my arms around the deer and engage it in a Jane Austen-esque dance as a teary-eyed thank you.

When ordering medium rare, it's always a gamble. I love a medium rare to have a gradient from blackened to deeply red center, and So & So's center was blackened on the outside and red enough in the middle to entice vampires. Three very happy things hit you with the first bite: 1) salty crunch 2) smoke 3) juice. The challah bun added a soft richness to a burger loaded with texture (I disagree with Leslie Brenner's burger one-liner in her review). Add the smoky bacon aioli, and it's one of the best burgers in Uptown right now.

I honestly have no idea what's happening at So & So's. It's the restaurant version of the Island of Dr. Moreau. One of things on the menu is a Chili De Arbol Pickle, which has the description "Movie Theater Style a Kick." There's also hamachi crudo. I think there's a stuffed mongoose below the deer. I don't care. It's all madness, but in the best possible way.

So & So's is at 3309 McKinney Ave, Dallas, TX 75204.

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.