In Defense of Pink Wine

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I met her last week, a French number tinged pink like blushing cheeks. A brilliant DSO performance had just drawn a standing ovation and concert-goers poured up Flora Street like a mist. Some of them stopped off for an outdoor glass of booze at The Commissary, and others continued the seemingly endless procession to a cycle of jogging valet drivers. Me? I wanted wine -- rosé, to be specific.

Rosé is without a doubt the sexiest of summer wines. Served well-chilled, it drinks like a cool stream tinged with minerals and berries, and in warm weather it's as replenishing as it is intoxicating. It's a shame the wine battles such a tarnished reputation, sullied by images of old ladies pulling on skinny cigarettes and swilling Julio by the boxful.

Thankfully the wine has enjoyed a resurgence over the past few years, fueled by stellar renditions with high alcohol, high acidity and little residual sugar. These examples are light and crisp on the palate, and far removed from the heavy and saccharine bottles prized by suburban housewives. Order a rosé with these characteristics and she'll carry you straight through summer to fall.

If you're interested, my evening affair was with a Ventoux Rose Epicure, Chateau Valcombe 2011, which you can purchase at Pogo's Liquor Store for $22.99. The Commissary charged me a frightening $37 for the pleasure of enjoying her company, and while I lamented the cost the next day, it was well worth the memory. I can't wait to see her again. It's going to be a long summer, after all.

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Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.