Jack's Southern Comfort Food recently opened and owner Scott Jones has delivered on his promise of from-scratch biscuits topped with a pinch of Southern hospitality. Stepping into this corner spot along Lower Greenville Avenue (1905 Greenville) reminded me of quaint restaurant on a Main Street in a small town, replete with a character developed over time.
Even though Jack's is new, cubbies filled with tchotchkes, jarred preserves and homemade aprons, along with plates of old fashioned staples, give it an air of nostalgia. It's all highlighted with a few simple modern touches and bright colors that are posh and sharp.
In a previous interview Jones, who has a long history in the local restaurant business, explained to me how he trusted himself more with this project. Instead of hiring people to run different aspects of the restaurant, he chose to do more. During a recent lunch service he worked the dining room and helped in the kitchen, making it clear that they are his kitchen and his dining room.
The menu has lots and lots of those biscuits. Also, Jones' family is from Louisiana, as is the cook, so Cajun notes are worked into a lot of the recipes.
The BLFGT has bacon, shredded cabbage (lettuce) and fried green tomatoes, on a buttermilk biscuit with a Cajun remoulade ($10.95). The chicken potpie is an eye-catcher as it's waltzed through the room; it has big pieces of chicken in a thick sauce poured over open-faced buttermilk biscuits ($12.95).
There's a Texas brisket chili over poblano corn cake ($10.95). For those looking for something lighter, the Texasian Salad has collard greens, cabbage, jicama, cucumber, carrots, red onions, smoked chicken, pecans and cilantro in a sesame lime vinaigrette ($9.95). It's not a huge menu; in all there are 14 entrees.
Jack's also has a deli counter for meals to go. Takeout is a serious part of the business. Jones previously described it as an eatZi's with a Southern twist (with a full service sit-down option, to be exact).
The staff is very dutiful. Jones' sister helps out and every waiter checks on diners regularly. Even the cook came out and worked the room with an invested discernment (he gave a darn, is what I'm trying to say).
Oh. And there's pie. Lots of pie. Sweet potato, chocolate and a rocky road contraption that looks dangerous.
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