Eat This

Ka-Chow! At Tortas La Hechizera, an Action-Packed Pambazo

The sound of the word is gustatory TKO, fit to play the role of an exclamatory bubble in a classic Batman episode: Pambazo!

And eating Tortas La Hechizera's rendition of a pambazo, a Mexican sandwich of white bread traditionally dipped a red chile sauce and stuffed with potato and chorizo, is just as dramatic and diverting.

The top loaf, gooey and spongy from that chile sauce, has the piquant goods that coat fingers, transforming the dining experience into digit-sucking fun. In fact, it's an experience more suitable to the application of the provided plastic utensils.

Even still, consuming the pambazo is a messy affair. The crispy ribbons of lettuce and delectable bantam asteroids of queso fresco don't make it any easier.

That's the joy of it. The sandwich requires full engagement, not mindless mastication and ingesting. It's food that forces the diner to face facts, the face-stuffing facts.

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José Ralat Maldonado

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